The mountain picked up just a bit of what I would call snow yesterday morning which was mixed with ice pellets and some freezing rain. This wintry mix rapidly diminished in complexity turning into a light freezing rain for the day incasing the landscape in a thin veneer of ice. Generally speaking we have a stable snowpack across all elevations due to the lock up of saturated crystals from this week's rain and high temperatures. Of the hazards we typically discuss avalanches are taking a back seat to sliding falls, breakable crusts, and ice dams.

Surface conditions are slick and icy which make crampons, an ice axe, and the skill to use them effectively worth their weight in gold....actually make that diamonds. Although these items are a standard you should always have with you the current conditions make them imperative for survival in case of a fall on steep terrain. Immediate self arrest before any speed build up will be critical as the low friction coefficient between ice and Gore-Tex will put you at Mach 1 in seconds. Another topic worth noting is the temperature gradients causing faceting which in turn is weakening the ability for the surface crusts to hold your body weight in some locations. For the most part we have hard, strong, resilient surface conditions that can hold your body weight particularly in angled terrain. But in some locations especially with rocks, cliffs and trees above and below the surface you will find a weakening bridge of surface snow. This can cause a random surprise postholing to your thigh when you least expect it. If this occurs while you're descending a gully rapidly this could send you - - - over tea kettle pretty quickly down the slope. Expect this in thin treed gullies like the Escape Hatch.

The valley ice climbing conditions took a punishing this week which puts most ice opportunities up high so we are expecting some good traffic in the Ravines over the weekend. Think about all the other visitors around you. Watch out for climbers sending ice down the slope and conversely don’t send ice down on climbers below. Ice dams and their hydraulic force should weigh heavy on the mind with all the running water under snow and ice in the gullies. Protect ice sections well and bring rock gear that can deal with some verglass conditions in addition to ice screws.

Skiing and riding anywhere on the mountain would be extremely challenging and even the Sherburne ski trail will be survival skiing. I would be very surprised if anyone on boards will be smiling at any point during there visit except the uphill slog. If you do decide to give the ski trail a look hockey pads would be helpful as a fall on the Sherburne will make an ice rink feel tame.

THE LION HEAD WINTER ROUTE IS OPEN. This is a steep and challenging route for mountaineers. Crampons, an ice axe and the ability to properly use this equipment are recommended for safe travel on this route.