| Posted: 8:02 a.m., Thursday, February 21, 2008 |
Well, the good news for today is that there is a wide variety of travel options available to those looking to head into avalanche terrain. The bad news is that the conditions are as they are because of a lack of new snow since Monday's rain, which leaves us with an icy crust throughout the area. Since Monday, the summit has received a scant 2.5" (6.4cm) of new snow. Apparently the Little Engine that Could failed to bring any moisture up the mountain yesterday, as only 0.6" (1.5cm) fell during the day. One interesting side note to the recent weather is the consistency of the winds over the past few days. They've been predominantly from the W in the 50-75mph (80-120kph) range for about three days now. These winds have been able to move what little snow has fallen, and there is currently some loading going on in the upper right fork of Hillman's Highway. Although much of this snow has been deposited down lower on the mountain in the trees, some has been able to stick around in steep terrain. The Low definition contains the phrase "except in isolated pockets" when referring to human triggered avalanches being unlikely. Isolated pockets of unstable snow do exist today, particularly in strongly sheltered areas such as the aforementioned upper right side of Hillman's, under the Headwall ice flows, and in parts of the Sluice. For the most part around Tuckerman and Huntington it is the aging rain crust that dominates the surfaces. This is your best bet for safe travel. Venturing into newly deposited snow might just lead to the discovery of an isolated pocket of instability. Today's a great example of how a "Low" rating does not mean "No danger", so keep your heads up for those slabby pockets.
A couple of other things worth mentioning today include the cold temperatures, ice dams, and the dangers of rapid acceleration on icy crusts. First of all, it's COLD. The summit is forecasted to reach a high of -10F (-23C) this afternoon. Be prepared for Arctic conditions. Second, CLIMBERS SHOULD BE AWARE OF THE POTENTIAL FOR ICE DAMS. Monday was a classic set up for ice dams-a warm rainy day followed by a quick freeze. Climbers have the potential to release built up water pressure with the swing of an axe or kick of a crampon. Be cautious if you are out climbing today. This hazard diminishes as the water has a chance to drain out, however the rain stopped only three days ago, so there is still the potential for ice dams to exist. Third, trails around the mountain are very icy, hard, and slick. Historically, this has contributed to a number of accidents, particularly sliding falls with crampons on. Yesterday I surprised myself with just how quickly I accelerated sliding down a ten foot slope. I would not recommend glissading in these conditions, with or without crampons. Crampons are great tools for helping you get around the mountains in these conditions. However, quick self-arrest with your ice axe is the best way to stop a sliding fall. If you haven't practiced your self-arrest skills in a while, I'd recommend doing so in a safe location before venturing into angled terrain, including the Lion Head Winter Route. Crampons, an ice axe, and solid self arrest skills are needed for travel in steep terrain, which does include the Lion Head Winter Route and the summit cone.
The Sherburne Ski Trail is in icy condition. It will be survival skiing there until new snow is able to cover up the ice.
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Avalanche Advisory Archives.
United States Avalanche Danger Descriptions.
Échelle Canadienne de risque d’avalanche.
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