| Posted: 8:49 a.m., Tuesday, October 18, 2005 |
This is an early season GENERAL ADVISORY. Use of the 5-scale avalanche rating system will begin when conditions warrant. Until then new advisories will be issued as needed. Check tuckerman.org frequently as we move into November and certainly check for the latest avalanche advisory before heading into avalanche terrain.
Over the weekend and into Monday the Summit received 34 inches (86cm) of frozen precipitation! I say frozen precipitation and not snow because the majority came in the form of heavy ice pellets and iced grapel for a melted equivalent of 16.62 inches (42.21cm)! INCREDIBLE! This precipitation came in along with high W and NW winds. Winds dominated from NW between 75 and 100 mph during the period, with a peak of 135 mph. This has loaded eastern facing aspects generating snowfields in some of the traditional early locations. These snowfields, as well as exposed ice, are the most likely areas for possible avalanche activity during the next series of weather makers. This weather event came on the heels of a record breaking week of warm temperatures, so snow loading on water ice is currently quite limited. Warm rock has made for slushy conditions at the mid-elevation levels around the mountain. Ice usually develops rapidly each fall in both Ravines and often acts as an excellent sliding layer for avalanches to occur in small pockets that may appear innocuous. You still need to expect this to occur as we have entered back into colder weather. We will be in the field this week to get a close look how this event affected our terrain and will update the advisory accordingly.
Be aware that a small slab or sluff can be very dangerous. This is particularly true in the steep gullies and slopes of Tuckerman and Huntington Ravines for early season ice climbers. As a climber picks their way through a route they will usually cross small pockets of snow. Often this snow has deposited over blue ice, making for a poor bond at the interface. Consider this ahead of time and place protection before crossing suspect slopes. It doesn't take much snow to knock you off your feet and depending how high you are this could be a significant problem. Remember if a snowfield is big enough to recreate on it's big enough to avalanche.
Be aware of falling ice if we get into thaw periods before the real deep winter freeze. Many folks have been injured and killed by falling ice so pay attention to where you are, and don't linger when under ice. Have a plan in mind about what you will do and where you will go if ice comes down. Station yourself near a large rock to duck behind in the event of ice fall.
We are absolutely in early winter in the high mountains so don't plan on being able to follow summer trails safely. Trails going through ravines and gulfs are buried with snow in many areas and require winter gear, i.e. winter clothes, ice axe, crampons, avalanche beacons, shovels, and probes. Don't wait any longer to refresh your avalanche skills. Pull out your beacon and practice. Review your safe travel rules, techniques for assessing snow stability, and sign up for an avalanche course. We will have all the avalanche courses offered in the valley this winter on our website, tuckerman.org very soon.
Thanks in advance to all the groups that will once again be helping us make it through the season successfully. We couldn't do the job without the many volunteers searching for and carrying injured people down the mountain and the financial support that helps us upgrade our rescue capabilities. We sincerely appreciate all your help.
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Avalanche Advisory Archives.
United States Avalanche Danger Descriptions.
Échelle Canadienne de risque d’avalanche.
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