Well the results of this past storm in the Ravines and the upper cone of Mt. Washington were impressive. I can't remember the first significant storm of the season ever producing as many substantial snowfields, that in my opinion, are here to stay. Due to the warm weather during the previous week snowfall on open rock is in the process of melting quickly, such as on the Headwall and Bowl of Tuckerman Ravine. But in areas that have substantial grass and scrub and are in the lee of NW winds, like Left Gully, picked up copious amounts of new snow. Although Left Gully picked up by far the most snow in Tuckerman other high lee locations with E through S aspects received nice pillows of snow as well. The top of Hillmans, Right Gully, and Right Right Gully (Lobster Claw), are some good examples of new snow pockets. Moving over to Huntington Ravine I was quite impressed. In addition to Left Gully the presence of cornices over Yale, Damnation, and even high over Henderson Ridge surprised me. O'Dell's, Central, Yale, and Damnation all filled in quite well and from a distance look close to viable snow climbs. However, I would be patient as I am positive many areas possess a thin veneer of snow over rock. The main fact for early season climbers clambering to get out to remember is there is literally NO ICE at all. Do not expect to protect anything with ice gear. We are just getting into cold weather and the mountain has a fair amount of running water so patience will payoff eventually.

Beginning late Saturday we are in for another blast of precipitation. We are expecting to start with snow and move through mixed conditions and potentially to freezing rain on Sunday. As the system moves out Sunday into Monday we may move back to snow as some wrap around is expected with this Nor'easter like system. Winds should move from the East to from the NW Sunday night. Models are producing different actual liquid equivalent amounts but between 1.5 and 3 inches (3.75-7.5cm) of water are likely, possibly more. Precipitation moving from low density snow to freezing rain may make for an unstable snowpack where a bed surface already exists such as the snowfields and gullies already discussed above. East winds will likely limit new loading with the exception for some cross loading, however I would anticipate some sluffing if the storm plays out as expected. Sunday's potential for freezing rain and winds does not sound like a great day to be in the high mountains and Mondays NW winds may make for new loading in the Ravines if snow returns.

Be aware that a small slab or sluff can be very dangerous. This is particularly true for early season ice climbers. As a climber picks their way through a route they will usually cross small pockets of snow. It doesn't take much snow to knock you off your feet and depending how high you are this could be a significant problem. Remember if a snowfield is big enough to recreate on it's big enough to avalanche. We are in an unusual pattern this year of significant snow before the development of water ice. Expect to see atypical conditions with ice forming over snow and other "cross your fingers when your on it" situations. Strange weather creates strange avalanches!

Be aware of falling ice when we get into freeze thaw periods before the real deep winter freeze. Many folks have been injured and killed by falling ice so pay attention to where you are, and don't linger when under ice. Have a plan in mind about what you will do and where you will go if ice comes down. Station yourself near a large rock to duck behind in the event of ice fall.

We are absolutely in early winter in the high mountains so don't plan on being able to follow summer trails safely. Trails going through ravines and gulfs are buried with snow in many areas and require winter gear, i.e. winter clothes, ice axe, crampons, avalanche beacons, shovels, and probes. Don't wait any longer to refresh your avalanche skills. Pull out your beacon and practice. Review your safe travel rules, techniques for assessing snow stability, and sign up for an avalanche course. We will have all the avalanche courses offered in the valley this winter on our website, tuckerman.org very soon.