The summit of Mt. Washington, and Hermit Lake at the 3800 ft level, picked up another 7.5" (19cm) of 10% snow over the past 24 hours. This precipitation came in on E and ENE winds in the 50-60 mph (80-95 kph)range slowly subsiding during the period to a current of 6 mph (10 kph). This generated healthy drifting above treeline and caused some cross loading of gullies with some direct loading of southern aspects. This affects stability in locations that already had a sizable bed surface from the last storm. Some good examples of this are the top of Right Right gully (Lobster Claw) and the Right gully in Tuckerman and Damnation and Yale in Huntington that already had healthy cornices as of 3 days ago. We are positioned well for the next storm that will roll in tomorrow and drop periods of heavy snow in the higher mountains from Tuesday evening to Wednesday. It will also come in from the E and NE before moving through the N and to the NW during the early morning hours on Thursday. During the storm we should receive loading very similarly to this past event, but beginning Thursday NW winds will move snow into both Ravines effecting most easterly aspects. There is a lot of snow sitting above treeline in large drifts as demonstrated on the Lion Head trail from Lion Head proper to the base of the summit cone as well as massive drifts near the summit of Washington. In short, be ready for some substantial loading in localized areas over the next few days and expect some isolated avalanche activity to occur. Anticipate the normal early season spatial variability of being in pucker brush one second and on a growing snowfield the next. Expect these snowfields to grow rapidly preparing themselves to be the bed surfaces for future loading later in the week. We will watch conditions closely and may go to a 5 scale forecast sooner than we thought.

From a distance many areas look close to viable snow climbs. However, I would be patient as I am positive many areas possess a thin veneer of snow over rock. The main fact for early season climbers clambering to get out to remember is there is literally NO ICE. Do not expect to protect a climb with ice or snow gear. Be prepared to look for desperate rock placements hidden under snow. Also be aware that a small slab or sluff can be very dangerous. This is particularly true for early season ice climbers. As a climber picks their way through a route they will usually cross small pockets of snow. It doesn't take much snow to knock you off your feet and depending how high you are this could be a significant problem. Remember if a snowfield is big enough to recreate on it's big enough to avalanche. We are in an unusual pattern this year of significant snow before the development of water ice. Expect to see atypical conditions with ice forming over snow and other "cross your fingers when your on it" situations. Strange weather creates strange avalanches!

ICEFALL- With colder temperatures on the way be aware of falling ice when we get into freeze thaw periods before the real deep winter freeze. Many folks have been injured and killed by falling ice so pay attention to where you are, and don't linger when under ice. Have a plan in mind about what you will do and where you will go if ice comes down. Station yourself near a large rock to duck behind in the event of ice fall.

GENERAL TRAVEL- We are absolutely in early winter in the high mountains so don't plan on being able to follow summer trails safely. Trails going through ravines and gulfs are buried with snow in many areas and require winter gear, i.e. winter clothes, ice axe, crampons, avalanche beacons, shovels, and probes. Don't wait any longer to refresh your avalanche skills. Pull out your beacon and practice. Review your safe travel rules, techniques for assessing snow stability, and sign up for an avalanche course. We will have all the avalanche courses offered in the valley this winter on our website, tuckerman.org very soon.